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When I was Michael Cimarusti, at Water Grill and Spago, I was in the process of becoming increasingly aware of these things, but now, I mean you have to be sleeping under a rock not to know that when some food blogger in Tokyo posts photos and writes about the delights of eating Pacific bluefin tuna -- which is down to 4 % of its historic biomass -- that person is not doing the world any favors.