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[first lines, narrating]Bethany Hamilton: I was born in Hawaii to two die-hard surfers. How could I not have salt water in my veins. They say home is where the heart is, and for most people that consists of four walls and a welcome mat. But for me, it's the ocean, with the warmth of the sun on my skin. Two brothers, that's my answer when anyone asks why I'm so competitive. And of course, there's my best friend Alana. We spent more time wet than we did dry, my mom was convinced that we were mermaids. From the moment I caught my first wave, I knew I wanted to be a Pro Surfer. Nothing else seemed to matter. Surfing is my passion, my way of life. The stoke I get from riding a perfect wave is pure joy. But like my dad always says, life is an adventure. And sometimes you wipe out and end up in the impact zone.

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